St Stephen's Church - Gloucester Road, London, UK
Posted by: Groundspeak Regular Member Master Mariner
N 51° 29.743 W 000° 10.995
30U E 695519 N 5708715
The church of St Stephen is on the west side of Gloucester Road just north of the junction with Cromwell Road. Although the church faces on to Glocester Road the entrance is on the north side in Southwell Gardens.
Waymark Code: WMF0NV
Location: London, United Kingdom
Date Posted: 08/03/2012
Published By:Groundspeak Premium Member xptwo
Views: 1

The church is a Grade II* listed building and the entry at English Heritage (visit link) tells us:

"Church. 1866-7, designed by Joseph Peacock. Octagonal north-east vestry, passage behind east end and south-east chapel added by H R Gough 1887. Chancel recast 1903-8 by G F Bodley and Walter Tapper. Coursed Bargate stone (Yorkshire parpoints to 1887 additions), with Bath stone dressings. Slate roof. Transitional but eclectic Gothic style, with many individual features. Nave and lean-to aisles, double transepts broadening out of aisles, and further short transepts north and south of choir. North-west tower planned but not built. Tracery of unusual patterns throughout, with rose windows over long lancets in east end and choir transepts as well as over two very long windows at west end. Clerestory of irregular design. Deep entrance porch at west end of north aisle. Interior has nave of six bays with arcade of Pennant stone columns, Bath stone arches and polychromatic brick wall surfaces, all now painted. Timber roof to nave of braced Queen post type. Pews by Peacock. Chancel wholly recast by Bodley and Tapper. Tall reredos by Bodley with gilded wooden figures carved by Bridgeman of Lichfield; organ loft on north side, 1905-6; black and white marble paving by Bodley and Tapper; rood by Tapper, 1908. Also by Tapper, St Stephen's Chapel under organ, 1913. Equivalent chapel on north side by Sir Charles Nicholson, 1936. Font under west windows by Peacock, now surrounded by choir stalls by Tapper and with tall inter-war canopy. Stained glass of variable quality, but including good west windows by Mayer of Munich, 1881. Much in aisles by Lavers, Barraud and Westlake. One of the best remaining churches by the 'rogue' Victorian architect, Joseph Peacock; 'tamed by other hands' (Goodhart-Rendel) but with a richness of added interest rather than loss of effect."

The British History On-Line website (visit link) has a detailed history:

"St. Stephen's Church stands at the south corner of the junction between Gloucester Road and Southwell Gardens. It was built in 1866–7 to forceful designs by Joseph Peacock, was enlarged in 1887, but has since, in the words of H. S. Goodhart-Rendel, been 'tamed by other hands', notably those of G. F. Bodley and Walter Tapper in 1903–10.

During the 1860s H. B. Alexander's lands east of Gloucester Road were in process of intensive development. St. Stephen's, sited strategically on Alexander's freehold midway between an area already being built up and another earmarked for impending development, seems to have been first conceived as an estate church, looking especially towards the rising neighbourhood of Queen's Gate Gardens and Place to the east. But no doubt it was expected to appeal also to the whole new district between Harrington Road, Gloucester Road, Kensington Road and Queen's Gate, where St. Augustine's was not built till 1870–1.

St. Stephen's owes its origins to Archdeacon John Sinclair, Vicar of Kensington. By March 1864 Sinclair had agreed with Alexander for the site, which was to cost £3,000. An architect, Joseph Peacock, had been chosen and a design settled; subscriptions were now solicited. First, however, a temporary church was built on the east side of Gloucester Road, a little to the south of Cromwell Road, and opened early in 1866. At the same time the foundation stone of the permanent St. Stephen's was laid. It took just under a year to erect, being consecrated on 10 January 1867. Simms and Martin were the builders. Their tender of August 1865 amounted to £7,777, but the cost of construction was reckoned a year later at about £9,500. For the time being Peacock's tower was postponed, though by the terms of the agreement with Alexander it had to be added within five years. A large proportion of the money came from John Cator of Woodbastwick Hall, Norfolk, who became patron of the church.

As it appeared on completion, St. Stephen's was the most accomplished of a group of four South Kensington churches, all built between 1866 and 1873, which shared elevations of rough-hewn stone, polychromatic brick interiors, plans which set out to reconcile the tenets of ecclesiology with the seating traditions of Evangelical worship, and strident styles of Gothic verging upon what has become known as 'roguishness'. (fn. d) Peacock (1821–93) was numbered by Goodhart-Rendel among the 'rogues' of the Gothic Revival, but little enough is known of his career or intentions. He was probably trained as a surveyor, yet became primarily an architect of churches, among which St. Simon Zelotes in Milner Street, Chelsea (1858–9), is the best-known and best-preserved example.

Peacock's brief at St. Stephen's seems to have been to provide a 'Broad Church' interior which could house a large and fashionable congregation without recourse to galleries; 1,100 sittings in all were required, of which most were for renting. He therefore planned the church on 'correct' ecclesiological lines, with distinct nave, aisles and chancel (fig. 153). But in order to give extra capacity he enlarged the easternmost bays of the aisles and built large, commanding transepts north and south of the choir.

These arrangements were candidly, indeed piquantly, expressed on the exterior of the church, which was broken up into contrasting and occasionally colliding parts with some semblance (as at the junctions of the transepts with the gables to the aisles) of portions added over the years. Peacock's massive Rhenish tower, had it been built, would have added to this sense of separate elements, for it was to stand detached in a north-west position next to the porch. The exterior, which is in a French thirteenth-century style, is marked by a predilection for odd but well-calculated window sizes and shapes (fig. 154). Rose windows boldly surmount lancets or other thin, tall lights at the east and west ends and in the transepts, while in the queer, squat fenestration of the clerestory Peacock evidently 'enjoyed himself', to quote the Reverend B. F. L. Clarke. The buttressing throughout is pronounced and no doubt exaggerated beyond necessity, notably at the end of the north transept, where it is thrice pierced by an arched passageway with a lean-to roof. The facing of the exterior is in small coursed blocks of Bargate stone rather than the commoner Kentish rag, with the usual Bath dressings. At first Peacock had wanted to vary the colour with some diaperwork, but this was suppressed in execution. Nevertheless the small columns at the corners of the chancel and transepts are of Red Mansfield stone, and the roofs were originally of green slate.

Internally, the church was also formerly gay and colourful. The piers of the nave were of blue-grey Pennant stone and their capitals and bases of Hollington stone. The arches above were ribbed in Bath stone, but their faces were finished in a variety of pale malm, red and black bricks, a combination which recurred throughout the walling of the church except in the chancel, which was stone-lined. The clustered columns carrying the roofs, the chancel arch and the ribs were variously of Bath, Mansfield, Serpentine and Devon marble. There were patterned Minton tiles on the floors of the baptistery (a modest excrescence in the north-west corner) and chancel, while the east wall was diapered in tiles and 'rather resembles what is popularly known as Tunbridge ware', felt one early visitor. The nave roof is of a braced Queenpost type, while the chancel is vaulted, with groining of wood. The aisles and transepts also have open roofs, those under the double gables at the ends of the aisles being separated by a single slim stone column. An eccentric feature throughout the interior is the sharp pitch of many of Peacock's Gothic arches, as in the clerestory and in the screens of open columns interposed between the chancel and transepts.

Despite all this individuality, when William Pepperell viewed St. Stephen's in 1871 he was struck by its 'agreeable harmony' and 'quiet general tone… There is a peaceful influence produced by the quiet colouring and grey columns and excellent proportions of the church … There is nothing glaring, nothing particular to arrest or attract the eye, yet every part is worthy of inspection, and the parts taken together produce one of the best and most exquisitely charming interiors with which we are acquainted in the neighbourhood.'

The first incumbent of St. Stephen's, J. A. Aston, was an Evangelical. He left in 1871 and was replaced by J. P. Waldo. Under Waldo and his successor, G. Sutton Flack, the church began to assume a 'higher' tone, until by 1900 it was firmly Anglo-Catholic in character. These changes affected the interior. To Peacock's displeasure, Aston had erected galleries as early as 1868, one at the west end and another for children in the south transept; these were to remain until 1894–5. In Waldo's time the church began to acquire embellishment. The east windows had been stained (by O'Connor) in time for the consecration, and Peacock had put in an angular font and a large stone pulpit with columns of marble, but there was no proper reredos. This want was supplied in 1876 when the builders T. H. Adamson and Sons installed a carved reredos of alabaster and marble. Stained glass also started to arrive in quantity from about this time, notably perhaps in the west windows of the nave, filled in 1881 with 'Munich' glass of good quality by Mayer and Company.

The impetus to build Peacock's tower seems to have faded quite early; a weaker, alternative design was made by E. C. Robins in 1871 at the start of Waldo's incumbency, but this was not built either. Instead, a more practical addition was made in 1887. The church having proved deficient in vestry space, H. R. Gough (architect of St. Cuthbert's, Philbeach Gardens) was employed to remedy the fault. His extensions, faced in Yorkshire parpoints with dressings of Corsham stone, were erected by Chamberlen Brothers of Hammersmith at a cost of about £1,400. At the north-east corner Gough placed a big, octagonal top-lit vestry; this was linked by a lean-to passage behind the main east wall to an apsidal morning chapel, formerly known as the Lady Chapel, later as the Holy Souls Chapel. N. H. J. Westlake of the firm of Lavers, Barraud and Westlake decorated this chapel. In 1889 he installed stained glass here, and in 1894–5 coloured the little apse with ornamental painting and stencilling and set an iron screen (by Jones and Willis) within the arch between church and chapel. Westlake added to the decoration in 1910, but his work has now been painted over, so that the only remaining objects by him in the chapel are the glass and a pretty carved aumbry. The chapel has now been entirely cut off from the church.

Westlake's firm also stained most of the aisle windows of the church, and in 1899 he decorated the baptistery area in the north-west corner. Possibly the firm was responsible also for some decorative painting on the east wall of the sanctuary, still extant but hidden by curtains.

In 1900 a new era began with the appointment to St. Stephen's of the Reverend Lord Victor Seymour. Seymour's refined, aristocratic eye found the interior unseemly, and a programme of rapid change was soon set in motion. G. F. Bodley was the architect brought in, and in 1902 he delivered a report as unfeeling towards Peacock's building as could be imagined. It began: 'The church was built at a time when Gothic architecture had been little practised and was an almost unknown art. Though its dimensions are spacious the proportions and the details are very unhappy… in colour and in the details the fabric is sadly incongruous. The stained glass is bad, and, except in the aisle windows of the nave which are better, though feeble, in no way commends itself… The chancel is unfortunately short and there is a great lack of dignity about the sanctuary … In these days of greater knowledge of church architecture it would seem to be very desirable to try and make all the improvements that are possible.' Specifically, Bodley suggested rebuilding the east end eight feet further out to a new design, colourwashing the whole interior, painting the roofs in red, white and gold, and installing a chancel screen and new reredos ('the existing reredos is extremely poor and ill designed').

These ambitious plans had to be reduced, and the east wall remained. But in 1903 Bodley was able to reconstruct the sanctuary, with a new marble floor, altar, lamps, cross and, most dramatically, a towering carved and gilt reredos which obliterated Peacock's central lancet and broke into the rose window above. The wooden figures for the reredos were by Bridgeman of Lichfield and the decorative painting by W. O. and C. Powell, who also embellished the sanctuary walls and roof. Other fittings and the hangings of 'red Mabuse velveteen' round the altar were by Watts and Company. "

Active Church: Yes

School on property: No

Date Built: 01/01/1867

Service Times: Sunday at 9am

Website: [Web Link]

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