"The Parish Church of St. Mary stands near the S. end of Iwerne Courtney village. The walls are partly of squared and coursed rubble and partly of ashlar; the roofs were stone-slated until recently but are now tiled. The Chancel is of 14th-century origin but was extensively remodelled in the 17th century; the West Tower is of the 15th century with 17th-century alterations. The Nave, North Aisle and South Chapel were built in 1610 by Sir Thomas Freke (Coker, 103, and epitaph on Freke monument; see Hutchins IV, 99), the nave presumably replacing an earlier one. The South Aisle and South Porch were built in 1871, and the interior of the chancel was remodelled in 1872. The Vestry to the N. of the tower is modern.
The church illustrates the continuation of mediaeval architectural forms in the 17th century and it also contains a very noteworthy Renaissance oak screen, of the early 17th century, and an important wall monument of 1654.
Architectural Description—The Chancel (22½ ft. by 17 ft.) has a gabled E. wall with inclined copings surmounted by a cross; at the foot of the gable are two crocketed finials, that to the N. carved with the date 1610. The walls are faced with ashlar and have ogee and roll-moulded plinths which continue throughout the N. aisle and S. chapel. The E. window is of three cinquefoil-headed lights under a pointed head with rose tracery and a hood-mould; it appears to be of the 19th century and the level of the sill has been raised, possibly in 1872. The N. wall has a moulded eaves cornice and a 14th-century window of two ogee trefoil-headed lights with an ogee quatrefoil above, in a two-centred head with a moulded label; the rear-arch is segmental-pointed and the wide splays suggest that the wall is substantially mediaeval, although refaced externally in the 17th century. To the W. of the window the wall is pierced by an unmoulded two-centred archway which opens into the E. end of the N. aisle. The S. wall has a restored 14th-century doorway with a roll-moulded two-centred head and continuous jambs, an external hood-mould and a segmental-pointed rear-arch. Further W. is a two-light window uniform with that in the N. wall. Although the chancel arch is stylistically of the early 16th century the sources named above show that it really is of 1610; this also applies to the N. nave arcade and the archway to the S. chapel. The chancel arch is two-centred and has two ogee moulded orders separated by a wide hollow chamfer; the latter is continuous but the ogee mouldings are carried on attached shafts with moulded capitals and chamfered bases. On the W. side the arch is outlined by an ovolo moulding.
The Nave (47 ft. by 17½ ft.) is flanked on the N. by an arcade of three segmental-pointed arches with mouldings and responds similar to those of the chancel arch; each pier has four attached shafts with moulded caps and polygonal bases; between the shafts are continuous hollow chamfers. To the S., the archway opening into the S. chapel is uniform with those of the N. arcade; further W. the arcade to the S. aisle is of 1871. The North Aisle (56½ ft. by 12 ft.) extends eastwards to embrace part of the N. wall of the chancel, forming a chapel in which stands the memorial of Sir Thomas Freke. The walls are faced externally with ashlar and have a moulded plinth, buttresses of two weathered stages, and a moulded eaves cornice on the N. The E. gable has a moulded coping with pyramidal finials at the base and a fretted finial at the apex. The E. window and the three N. windows are uniform, each being of three gradated hollow-chamfered lancet lights in a two-centred casement-moulded head with continuous jambs and a moulded label; internally the two-centred rear-arches are continuous with the splays. The South Chapel (16 ft. by 10 ft.) has E. and S. windows uniform with those of the N. aisle; the W. archway, communicating with the S. aisle, is of 1871.
The West Tower (11 ft. square) is of three stages between a chamfered plinth and an embattled parapet; the stages are defined by weathered string-courses. There is no tower vice. Diagonal buttresses of two weathered stages strengthen the N.W. and S.W. corners of the bottom stage and a square-set buttress at the S.E. corner is partly incorporated in the fabric of the S. aisle. The top stage, which was probably remodelled in the 17th century, is decorated at each corner with a square pilaster. The weathered and hollow-chamfered parapet string-course returns around the pilasters and is interrupted on each face by two symmetrically spaced gargoyles. The embattled parapet has a continuous moulded coping and at each corner the pilasters of the third stage continue upwards to terminate in crocketed finials. The two-centred tower arch has three chamfered orders, the outer chamfer continuing on the jambs while the inner orders die into flat responds. In the W. wall of the lower stage is a 15th-century window of two trefoil-headed lights below a quatrefoil in a two-centred head, with a moulded label and a two-centred rear arch; the S. wall has a small doorway with a moulded two-centred head and continuous jambs, probably of the 19th century but inserted in the position of an earlier doorway. The middle stage has square-headed single-light windows on the N. and S. sides. The third stage has in each wall a louvred belfry window uniform with the W. window of the lower stage. The South Porch is of 1871; until recently it incorporated an embattled parapet which may have been part of a former porch, but the parapet has now been removed.
Fittings—Bells: four; 1st blank, 2nd dated 1631, 3rd by John Wallis, inscribed 'Geve thanks to God I W 1590', 4th inscribed 'Santa Maria' in black-letter. Font: of Purbeck marble with slightly tapering octagonal bowl, each facet with round-headed panel, rim encircled by chamfered horizontal fillet, under-edge of bowl chamfered; cylindrical Purbeck marble stem with roughly shaped mouldings at top and bottom; bowl and stem perhaps late 12th-century but bowl entirely refaced. Glass: In N. window of chancel, two fragments, probably 15th or 16th century. Helm In N. aisle, on bracket on S. wall, with skull combed and roped at ridge and reinforced over forehead by shaped frontal piece, lower edge of sight and rim of vantail roped, vantail turning on faceted pins and resting on similar pin to right of chin; above, Freke crest, a bull's head collared or; skull, sights, vantail and chin probably c. 1560, gorget plates Cromwellian.
Monuments and Floor-slabs. Monuments: In N. aisle, near E. end of N. wall, of Sir Thomas Freke Kt., 1633, and Elizabeth (Talor) his wife, 1641, stone and slate monument erected by their sons in 1654; at top, achievement-of-arms of Freke impaling Talor enclosed in broken segmental pediment, surmounted by putti and dove bearing inscribed scrolls; epitaph painted on slate panel within moulded stone surround; on each side five numbered shields, each with shield-of-arms of Freke impaled by or impaling another, corresponding with names of children listed, with alliances, in lower part of panel (see Hutchins IV, 99); below, sculptured podium with angels with wreaths and trumpets, and large central panel containing swag of fruit and flowers below winged angel bust. In N. aisle, near centre of N. wall, of Frederick Ryves, 1826, Catherine Elizabeth Ryves, 1803, and Anna Maria Ryves, 1815, marble tablet by Hiscock; of [Elizabeth Ryves, 1755, and her daughter Charlotte, 1785,] grey and white marble monument with urn and arms. In S. chapel, on S. wall, of Wellington Baker and William Baker, both 1847, white marble tablet by Reeves of Bath; of Sir E. Baker Baker Bt., 1825, white marble tablet in form of sarcophagus surmounted by urn, backed by grey marble obelisk; over W. arch, of Peter William Baker, 1815, and his wife Jane, 1816, marble tablet with urn, angel heads and crossed swords. In tower, on N. wall, of J. Stubbs, 1755, and his wife Mary, 1798, white and variegated marble tablet. In churchyard, N.E. of N. aisle, of Agnis Mew, 1670, stone table-tomb. Floor-slabs: In nave, to N.E., of George [Ryves, 1689], worn Purbeck marble slab; of Mary Ryves, 1697, similar slab with Latin inscription; of George Ryves [1666], Purbeck marble slab with boldly carved cartouche-of-arms of Ryves.
Plate: includes silver cup and cover-paten and two flagons, all date-marked 1667, cup inscribed 'Ex dono Johannis Ryves de Ranston Armiger qui obiit tertio die Maii 1667'. Screens: Across E. end of N. aisle and in archway from aisle to chancel, thus enclosing Freke monument, but probably intended at first to surround Freke family pew, oak screens in two heights of panelling surmounted by a height of colonettes and ornamental latticework enclosing crests of Freke; above, entablature with masks and tendrils on frieze, enriched cornice, and strapwork cresting with fretted pinnacles and central coats-of-arms of Freke and Talor; early 17th century. Miscellanea: Fragments of architectural sculpture some 50 yds. S.W. of church, reset in churchyard wall, stone panel, 2 ft. by 2 ft., with mouldings forming four triangular panels, each containing cusped circlet; octagonal finial, c. 2 ft. diameter, with embattled moulding; drum of Purbeck marble shafting; fragment of coarse crocketed finial."
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