Paradise or Peril? Free-Flowing River Shapes History -- Livingston MT USA - Montana Historical Markers on Waymarking.com

This is the second of three panels explaining the extensive and significant reports of Lewis & Clark as they explored along the Yellowstone River on their Corps of Discovery Expedition.

The second panel, in the center, reads as follows:

"Paradise or Peril?
Free-Flowing River Shapes History

July 13, 1806
"I observe Several leading roads which appear to pass a gap of the mountain in a E.N.E. direction about 18 or 20 miles distant. The indian woman who has been of great Service to me as a pilot through this country recommends a gap in the mountain more South which I shall cross-"

As Captain William Clark and his party of 12 looked down on the valley in front of you. perhaps their hearts beat a little faster. What lay ahead on the Yellowstone River? Would they find a paradise or peril?

Following the advice of Sacagawea, Clark led his party of 12 plus 49 horses and a colt across the Bozeman pass on July 15, 1806. They followed a well-traveled "old buffalow road" to meet the Yellowstone River near present day Livingston. Twelve days earlier, Captain. Meriwether Lewis and Clark had divided forces at Traveler's Rest (near Lolo, Montana). Lewis headed northeast to explore the Marias River and Clark trekked through familiar territory until he reached the headwaters of the Missouri at Three Forks on July 13th. There, he splits his party, sending Captain (sic) Ordway and 10 men down the Missouri to meet up with Lewis. They all would converge on August 12th, downstream from the confluence of the Missouri and Yellowstone River.

Today, you can follow Clark's route along the longest, free-flowing river in the lower 48 states. Consider how this powerful river shaped their journey as it continues to influence the lives of wildlife and people today.

Cottonwood Quest

Today, big, water-loving cottonwoods are easy to find along the Yellowstone River, offering many candidates for dugout canoes. Irrigation keeps water levels from flooding and the banks are stabilized to prevent erosion. This saves the old trees, but prevents regenerating as many new seedlings.

In Clark's time, frequent floods soured the riverbank creating seedbeds for new cottonwoods but eliminating the oldest trees. Day after day, searching along the Yellowstone for cottonwoods large enough to build canoes proved futile for Clark and his party. "...no timber on tis part of the Rochibone sufficiently large for a Canoe and time is precious...it is our wish to get to the U States this Season...."

Finally on July 20, Clark gave up the search for large trees and used several smaller ones to craft canoes. "I determined to have two Canoes made out of the largest of those trees and lash them together which will Cause then to be Study and fully Sufficient to take my Small party & Self with what little baggage we have down this river.."

As the Land Changes, So Does the River

As you follow the Yellowstone River south of Livingston past Paradise Valley, you have a chance to practice the keen observation that became the hallmark of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Along the river's more than 600-mile journey to the Missouri, the landscape changes the the river and the river shapes the land. The icy mountain stream first rushes through Yellowstone National Park and into the Paradise Valley. Cool waters sustain healthy populations of Yellowstone cutthroat trout. The river warms up as it meanders across level plains and supports the ancient paddlefish, the sauger and pallid sturgeon. Note, too, how the trees change from evergreens in the mountains to cottonwoods and willows in the valleys, then finally to ash trees near the North Dakota border.

River of Plenty, River of Trials

August 3, 1806
"The Rochejbone or Yellow Stone river is large and navagable with but few obstructions quite into the rocks mountains...The Country through which it passes from those Mounts to its junction is Generally fertile rich open plains..."

As you travel in Clark's footsteps, notice the lush green banks contrasting with dry hillsides, the braided channels, islands and leisurely course of the Yellowstone. This life giving river assured plenty of game for the explorers to eat, fresh water to drink, and most importantly would convey them downstream in dugout canoes eventually. But the river of abundance could be maddening. They lost all their horses to the Crow Indians. Mosquitos tortured them, bison swimming across held them up for hours and an injured party member (Gibson) to the trials.

[map] Illustrated map of the Yellowstone River across the bottom, July 19-27, 1806

July 24, 1806
"on this Island I observd a large lodge...It is Situated in the Center of a butifull Island thinly Covered with Cotton wood under which the earth which is rich is Covered with wild rye and a Species of grass resembling the bluegrass, [and a mixture of Sweet grass which the Indian plat and ware around their necks for its cent which is of a Strong sent like that of the Vinella after Dinner"

July 25, 1806
I proceeded on after the lay a little and at 4 P M arived at a remarkable rock Situated in an extensive bottom on the Stard. Side of the river & 250 paces from it. this rock I ascended and from it's top had a most extensive view in every direction. This rock which I shall Call Pompy's Tower"

July 26, 1806
The bottoms of the Big Horn river are... it is very long and Contains a great perpotion of timber on which there is a variety of wild animals, perticularly the big horn which are to be found in great numbers on this river. Buffalow, Elk, Deer and Antelopes are plenty and the river is Said to abound in beaver. it is inhabited by a great number of roveing Indians..."

July 27, 1806
The Buffalow and Elk is estonishingly noumerous on the banks of the river on each Side, particularly the Elk which lay on almost every point in large gang and are So jintle that we frequently pass within 20 or 30 paces of them without their being the least alarmd."

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