St Mary Magdalene Church - Windmill Hill, Enfield, London, UK
Posted by: Groundspeak Regular Member Master Mariner
N 51° 39.240 W 000° 05.842
30U E 700780 N 5726546
The 1883 Anglican church, designed by William Butterfield, stands on the north side of Windmill Hill at the junction with The Ridgeway.
Waymark Code: WMJD0C
Location: London, United Kingdom
Date Posted: 11/01/2013
Published By:Groundspeak Regular Member razalas
Views: 5

The Spartacus Educational website tells us about William Butterfield who received the RIBA Gold Medal the year after this church was completed:

William Butterfield was born in London in 1814. His parents were strict Nonconformists and ran a chemist shop in the Strand. One of nine children, William was educated at a local school and at sixteen was apprenticed to Thomas Arber, a builder in Pimlico.

When Arber went bankrupt, Butterfield decided to set up business as a professional architect. In 1840 he opened an office in Lincoln's Inn Fields. His first important commission was St Augustine's College, Canterbury. This was followed by a request to build a new church in Bristol. These buildings were a great success and over the next few years he built schools, churches and several large houses.

All through the 1850s and 1860s Butterfield was earning over £2,000 a year in fees. A leading exponent of the Gothic revival he was the architect of Balliol College Chapel, St Albans, Holban and the chapel and quadrangle at Rugby School. William Butterfield died in 1900.

The church's website tells us:

What is now the parish of St Mary Magdalene was no more than forest and farmland for hundreds of years; only a windmill standing at the south end of the Ridgeway was of any interest to mapmakers until Victorian times.

For centuries, the area was part of royalty's Enfield Chase hunting grounds and its few inhabitants were served spiritually by St Andrew's, Enfield.

The extension of the Great Northern Railway to Enfield Chase in the latter half of the 19th century opened up the neighbourhood as part of a rapidly growing London suburb.

Large sections of land on the Bycullah, Ridgeway Park and Old Park estates, as well as glebe lands at the junction of the Ridgeway and Windmill Hill, were snapped up by developers. Their brief was to erect 'villas of character to suit professional and business men' migrating from the inner suburbs.

As the spacious houses and gardens sprang up and became occupied, it became clear that the well-heeled new residents also required a place for their Christian worship. Salvation came in the form of Georgiana Hannah Twells, widow of the eminent banker and City of London MP, Philip Twells, with whom she had lived at Chase Side House on the site of what is now the Enfield Library.

Mrs. Twells planned the church as a memorial to her husband and she recruited the renowned Victorian Architect, William Butterfield, to turn her dream into reality. Georgiana herself laid the foundation stone on Saturday, 17 December 1881. Just 20 months later on 18 July 1883 St Mary Magdalene Church was consecrated by the Bishop of London, the Rt Hon and Rt Revd Dr John Jackson.

The sermon that day was given by the Revd W D Maclagan, the Bishop of Lichfield, and former vicar at St Andrew's, Enfield, who later became Archbishop of York.

Georgiana Twells died in 1898 and is buried alongside her husband in Lavender Hill Cemetery.

The parish has changed considerably since her day. The large houses and farms that characterised it at the end of the 19th century have largely been replaced by smaller houses and more recently by blocks of flats. The number of parishioners has grown accordingly.

Now, as well as a centre of worship, the church is a focal point for the community and its facilities are used throughout the week by a wide variety of groups and associations.

The church is Grade II* listed with the entry at the English Heritage website telling us:

1881-3 by William Butterfield. 1897-9 chancel embellishments by Charles Buckeridge, Edward Turner and N H J Westlake. 1907-8 Lady Chapel added.

MATERIALS: Rock-faced coursed Kentish ragstone with Bath stone dressings. Red clay tile roofs.

PLAN: Nave, chancel, N and S aisles, S porch, N and S transepts, S chapel, N vestry and organ chamber.

EXTERIOR: The most distinctive feature is the spire, a dramatic tall pyramid with horizontal banding and one tier of lucarnes. The rest of the building is in a style of 1300 and is 'unremarkable' (Cherry and Pevsner). The tower is of four stages with angle buttresses to the first stage and a half, then turning to clasping ones which rise right up to the base of the spire. A square SE stair turret rises to halfway up the third stage. There is a three-light W window while the belfry windows are paired two-light openings to the W and E and two-light openings to the N and S. The form of the tracery is conventional Geometrical work with a cusped circle in the head. This form is repeated in the other ground floor windows while the clerestory has cusped Y-tracery openings. The S porch has a moulded arched entrance with one order of shafting. There is chequerwork in the gable and chequerwork also appears in the gable of the chancel. At the SE is a chapel under its own gable. Low transepts run off from the W parts of the chancel: the N transept has a hipped roof.

INTERIOR: Apart from the paintings in the chancel the walls are plastered and whitened. The nave has three wide arches to the aisles and a narrow one at the W which corresponds with the entrance alleyway from the S porch. The arches are double-chamfered, and the piers, of red sandstone, are round with moulded circular capitals. The chancel arch has an outer moulding while the inner order springs from a colonette which rises from a fluted corbel. There are similar arches to the transepts. The nave has canted roof with embattled tie-beams. The chancel has a six-sided canted ceiling divided into rectangular panels by ribs. The aisle roofs are lean-tos.

PRINCIPAL FIXTURES: The chancel is very richly adorned. The ceiling over the choir was decorated in 1898 to designs by Edward Turner of Leicester, brother of the then vicar, the Rev George Turner. The paintings of angels holding emblems of the Passion on the sanctuary ceiling are the work of Charles Buckeridge; his also are the designs for the paintings on the E wall which include depictions of the Magi and Shepherds. The marble facing round the sanctuary is also the work of Turner. Original Butterfield work occurs in the reredos which is architectural rather than figurative with a central feature silhouetted against the E window and with square corner pinnacles. The triple sedilia with their ogee tops to the openings are also Butterfield¿s: unusually they have movable wooden stools for seats rather than fixed stone benches; big, quatrefoiled roundels sit in the valleys between the arches. The stalls are by Butterfield too and have traceried fronts with pierced quatrefoils. The wooden chancel screen of 1898 has now been moved to the W end where it screens off the N-S alleyway. The floor of the chancel is laid with Minton's encaustic tiles and multi-coloured tiles floor the nave and aisle alleys. Red tiles are used to line the lower part of the walls of the aisles. In the nave and aisles the bench seating is low and is of a type, with rounded shoulders, much favoured by Butterfield. At the W end there is a fine font, characteristic of Butterfield, with an octagonal marble bowl with sides with gabled, trefoiled arches carried on dark marble shafts: central octagonal drum. The wooden polygonal pulpit, of two tiers on a stone base, has pierced tracery and is by Butterfield. There is extensive stained glass by Heaton, Butler and Bayne.

SUBSIDIARY FEATURES: Former parsonage to the N by Butterfield, 1882 (listed separately).

HISTORY: The need for a church in this expanding area in the late 19th century was met by Georgiana Hannah Twells, the widow of the banker and MP for the City of London, Philip Twells. She conceived the church as a memorial to him and the foundation stone was laid on 17 Dec 1881 with the consecration by Bishop Jackson of London taking place on 18 July 1883. The church comes from the latter period of Butterfield's career and, like other later churches of his, lacks the fire and inspiration which he brought to his work in the 1840s to 1860s and which helped forge the nature of High Victorian Gothic. The building, however, has been much enhanced by the embellishments of the 1890s. Butterfield had effectively retired by about 1890, hence the chancel enrichment was undertaken by others.

William Butterfield (1829-99) is recognised as one of the very greatest C19 church architects. His career flourished from the mid-1840s when he was taken up by the influential Cambridge Camden (later Ecclesiological) Society as one of their favourite architects. He was responsible in the 1850s for the great church of All Saints, Margaret Street in London, which broke new ground in terms of Victorian church-building, making use of brick for the facing and the use of extensive polychromy for the detailing. Butterfield had an astonishing fertility of invention and his work often has striking originality, seen for example, in intriguing uses of geometry (as can be seen with his spire at Enfield) and the bold use of colour. Apart from All Saints, his best-known work is probably Keble College, Oxford. A devout High Churchman himself, his clients were usually of similar leanings.

Architect: William Butterfield

Prize received: RIBA Royal Gold Medal

In what year: 1884

Website about the Architect: [Web Link]

Website about the building: [Web Link]

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