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 Captain Jack's Stronghold - Lava Beds National Monument
N 41° 49.482 W 121° 30.035
10T E 624519 N 4631399
Captain Jack's Stronghold resides within the Lava Beds National Monument in Siskiyou County, CA.
Waymark Code: WMH05K
Location: California, United States
Date Posted: 04/30/2013
Views: 8
The following well-written text is taken off the NRHP nomination form and reads:
 Captain Jack's Stronghold is a formation of incredibly twisted and contorted lava flow on the south shore of former Tule Lake. Here, in 1872-73, the Modoc Indians established a stronghold wherein they held out against the U. S. Army for over five months. The Indians made use of the rock formations, the cracks in the frozen lava, and the natural caves, all of which lent themselves admirably to defensive purposes. In addition the Modocs threw up breastworks and small fortifications of loose rocks.
The Army made two major attacks on the Stronghold, the troops erecting their own hasty fortifications of loose rock on each occasion. After the troops finally occupied the Stronghold, they erected still more forts in case of a Modoc counterattack.
The area has not yet been adequately mapped, but approximately 130 fortifications have been marked. Undoubtedly many more exist, both to the east and west of the center of the Modoc defense — the directions from which the army troops attacked. Other features identifiable today include the cave in which Captain Jack's family is said to have lived, the Modoc "War Dance Circle, the Modoc Council Ground, the Modoc cattle corral, and their horse corral. A modern road has been built between the Stronghold and the former lake bed.
 At Captain Jack's Stronghold approximately 70 Modoc men held out for 5-1/2 months against a much larger body of U. S. soldiers and Oregon and California volunteers. The first, attack on the Stronghold, on January 17, 1873, was made by 300 troops; the second attack on April 15-17, 1873, was made by 650. In the first instance the Modocs successfully repulsed the attack; in the second assault, they withdrew successfully from the Stronghold after inflicting severe casualties on the troops.
The Stronghold symbolized the Modoc War in that here the men of the tribe succeeded in standing off far superior numbers of their attackers. Here they made their last major stand as a tribe. The war crushed the spirit and the body of the Modoc, but at the Stronghold, for a moment of glory, a people successfully defended themselves and their history. The site is of national significance.
As you can see, this area has lots of history to offer the visitor. The Stronghold trail offers one short and one longer, self-guided interpretive trail that wind through the heart of the Modocs' wartime defenses. There is a brochure you can buy for 50 cents at the parking lot (entrance to the Stronghold trail) that highlights specific locations along the trails. Look for painted, brown wooden posts with white-painted numbers on top, then refer to the brochure for a story to tell about that location.
The Stronghold is a very spiritual place. It's quiet, and you can hear the wind in the grass and birds chirping as they fly to/from the Tule Lake National Wildlife Refuge to the north. As you look around at the views, you realize that 140 years ago, a Modoc warrior could have been standing here, trying to defend his homeland and keep his way of life. Unfortunately, we know how that ended, and the Klamath-Modoc-Yahooskin Tribes are still trying to gain back what they lost so many years ago.
 Although the trails through the Stronghold don't offer much in terms of views (lava rock amid a barren landscape is the main view), the stories behind these points-of-interest along the trails speak volumes. From the caves that once housed Captain Jack and Schonchin John's families during the war, to the strategically-placed lava rock walls and encampments in which the Modoc warriors kept on the lookout for attacking Army soldiers, the history here is incredible. Anyone who visits the Lava Beds National Monument needs to put this location at the top of their list in order to appreciate the cultural and archeological history within this National Park. There is another nicely-written article about Captain Jack's Stronghold by the National Park Service here. There is also a great online map of the whole National Park that you can view and plan for your next trip here.
Captain Jack and three of his fellows warriors would be hanged for their part in the Modoc War. They were executed at Fort Klamath Oct. 3, 1873 (now a county park) and their gravesites can be visited during the summer months when the park is open. Captain Jack is also noted as being the only Indian to kill a U.S. General in any American Indian War or conflict when he shot General E.R.S. Canby between the eyes, killing him instantly, during an attempted peace talk. This immediately led to the 5-1/2 month standoff here at the Stronghold. A white cross (known as Canby's Cross) marking the spot General Canby was killed can be visited a short distance west from the Stronghold.
My coordinates will place you at the beginning of the trail to captain Jack's Stronghold. Words of advice before you visit:
Use common sense.
Wear sturdy shoes.
Know where your children are and protect them.
Watch out for loose rocks.
Be aware of snakes—they are sometimes seen when least expected.
Be aware of the hot dry heat of summer. It can be very tiring.
Street address:
Lava Beds National Monument
Tulelake, CA USA
County / Borough / Parish: Siskiyou County
Year listed: 1973
Historic (Areas of) Significance: Military, Native American
Periods of significance: 1875-1899, 1850-1874
Historic function: Defense, Landscape
Current function: Landscape, Landscape
Privately owned?: no
Primary Web Site: [Web Link]
Secondary Website 1: [Web Link]
Secondary Website 2: [Web Link]
Season start / Season finish: Not listed
Hours of operation: Not listed
National Historic Landmark Link: Not listed
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Visit Instructions:
Please give the date and brief account of your visit. Include any additional observations or information that you may have, particularly about the current condition of the site. Additional photos are highly encouraged, but not mandatory.
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